Top 3 Backpacking Loops in Olympic National Park

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Top 3 Backpacking Loops in Olympic National Park

Olympic National Park is a wild, and in some ways, underappreciated gem located in Washington State. At 1442 square miles, it is the 6th largest National Park in the contiguous United States, and is home to snow-capped mountains, lush rainforests, and a wild coastline where the park meets the Pacific Ocean. While many visitors focus on the coast, visiting Kalaloch or Rialto Beach, the Hoh Rain Forest, or driving up to Hurricane Ridge, there is so much more to be explored, and doing it on foot is the best way to go. Olympic National Park provides some of the most impressive trails and backpacking loops in the area.

As for those backpacking loops – you start and end your hike at the same place, and enjoy new scenery the entire way. Olympic National Park is packed with great loop hikes, and here I’ll focus on hikes of various lengths that will allow you to enjoy the mountains, forests and ocean, sometimes all three in the same hike. I’ll also cover hikes of various lengths, from shorter hikes that are suitable for all ages, as well as longer hikes that make for a challenging day hike, or can be extended into an overnight trek.

Note: Like many National Parks, dogs are generally not allowed in many, if not all areas. Unfortunately they are not allowed on any of the hikes that I’ll be covering here, but they are allowed on some of the shorter out-and-back day hikes, as well as several of the beaches.

#1 - High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop

Located near Forks, WA (home of the Twilight series of movies), this challenging hike has it all – starting with lush green forests, waterfalls, sparkling alpine lakes and ending with breathtaking mountain views. Most people recommend doing this loop counter-clockwise, but it can be done either way. While it can be done as a day hike, likely taking 9-10 hours to complete, it’s better to do this as an overnighter or even a multi-nighter. You will need a camping permit though, and they can be hard to come by, so it’s a good idea to make reservations through the National Park Service as soon as they’re available (usually in February or March). It is possible to get a walk up permit though – you’ll want to look at the NPS website for details.

A mile in you’ll reach Sol Duc Falls – even though you won’t be tired at this point it’s worth stopping and enjoying the view for at least a few minutes. This is where the loop starts – at this point you’ll need to decide whether to do the loop clockwise or counter-clockwise. In this piece we will describe the route in the recommended direction – counter-clockwise. After Sol Duc Falls, take a right and follow Canyon Creek, where you’ll see three single tent campsites along the way. After nearly 3 miles you’ll reach Deer Lake, which has more campsites, and is also the point where you’ll meet up with the Pacific Northwest Trail (a 1,200 mile thru-hike that starts in Glacier National Park in Montana).

Follow the PNT east and at about the 2.5 mile mark you’ll reach a turn-off to Lunch Lake. If your goal is to see all of the lakes on this loop, or if you’re looking for a great place to camp, it’s well worth the detour. You’ll encounter a boulder patch that will require some careful navigating, not only to make sure you don’t get lost, but it’s also a good place to twist an ankle. Thankfully there are cairns that mark the way. After the turnoff continue east where you’ll reach Heart Lake (it’s hard to tell when you’re there, but if you look at an aerial photo it is actually shaped like a heart). Here you’ll be just past the half-way point, so you’ll likely want to pitch your tent here for the night, or just beyond at the one of the Sol Duc Park campsites.

If you spend two days or more on this loop, there are many things to do besides hiking and camping. If they’re in season, there are opportunities to pick wild berries (hopefully you won’t be competing with bears for them). A couple of the lakes are great for a cold, refreshing swim. At night, if it’s clear, you’ll get a great view of the night sky, unobscured by city lights in this remote area.

To complete the loop, you’ll start hiking north, crossing the Sol Duc River and passing several single tent campsites along the way. With just 5 miles to go, you’ll leave the PNT and head west, following the Sol Duc River, until you eventually reach the Sol Duc Trailhead, you’re legs tired but with a camera or phone full of photos. What could be better at this point than to visit the nearby Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort to soak your tired and sore legs in one of their mineralized pools.

Note: Bear canisters are required, and there is a very good chance you’ll see a bear or two along the way.

Total Loop Distance: 19 miles

#2 - Spruce Nature Trail / Hall Of Moss

Perfect for just about anyone, the Spruce Nature Trail is a nice 1.2 mile loop hike located at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center. Just be prepared for mud – unless it hasn’t rained for a couple of weeks, which is highly unlikely, it’s almost guaranteed that you’ll come across some muddy stretches along the way. However, you’ll be too busy taking in the views of old growth trees, the Hoh River, and even wildlife, everything from banana slugs to even elk if you’re lucky.

I recommend the Spruce Nature Trail over the nearby Hall Of Moss trail because this one doesn’t see quite as much foot traffic, but since both are so short it’s really worth doing both, and the total mileage is just over two miles by incorporating both. The Hall Of Moss trail is great too, with huge old-growth trees, ferns and of course, mosses! Due to the popularity of both trails, it’s not a bad idea to visit this area on a weekday, or during the early morning or evening hours.

While camping is not allowed on this loop, there is a nice campground at the trailhead, or you can get a permit and camp at one of wilderness campsites located along the Hoh River, the first of which is just a couple of miles in at the Mt. Tom Creek camp. Overall, one of the more relaxing and laid back backpacking loops in Olympic National Park.

Total Loop distance 1.2 miles (Spruce Nature Trail) / 1.1 miles (Hall Of Moss Trail)

#3 - Cape Alava Loop (aka Ozette Triangle)

With this hike you get it all – lush forests and a walk on the beach! At 9 ½ miles this loop hike can be done in one day fairly easily (taking about 5-6 hours or so), but with several wilderness campsites available, I would recommend doing this as an overnight trip. After all, what’s better than camping on the beach and enjoying a beautiful sunset?

Start at the Ozette trailhead (there is a ranger station and campground here – if you are camping, you will need a backcountry permit). As you leave Lake Ozette you’ll cross an arched bridge over the Ozette River – after a quarter mile you will reach a junction – at this point you’ll want to go right (for this article we will describe hiking the loop counter-clockwise). The trail to the left will be the trail you return on. You’ll come across sections of boardwalk – watch your step as they can be slippery if wet. Take in the forest filled with cedar, ferns, moss and other green plant life. There’s a good chance of seeing deer or elk along the way. Halfway to the ocean you’ll reach an open meadow which was once a farm with livestock and gardens.

It won’t be long before you hear (and smell) the ocean – you have reached Cape Alva. In the distance you can see Ozette Island, and the first of the campsites is here as well. If you do camp on the beach, bear canisters are required, although here it’s more for raccoons or mice, as bears usually aren’t found along the coast.

From here you’ll head south on the beach for approximately 3 miles – along the way stop at Wedding Rocks and view the old petroglyphs showing whales, ships and people. Do not touch or disturb anything in this area, as it’s under legal protection. As you continue south there are several other spots to pitch your tent if you’re spending the night. With luck you might see a bald eagle along the way. As you walk the beach there are sections where you’ll have to cross rocks – watch your step as these can definitely be slippery. While I usually don’t use hiking poles while walking on the beach, they could come in handy here.

Keep a sharp eye out for the marker at Sand Point which shows where the return trail starts. As you return you’ll enjoy a pleasant walk through the forest before returning to the trailhead. There are sections of boardwalk here as well – use caution if they’re wet, and look out for missing planks.

Total Loop Distance: 9.5 miles